Parisian baguettes are the highly refined products of science and technology. From the agricultural chemistry behind the flour to the finely calibrated temperatures of sophisticated ovens, the baguette, marvelous as it is, owes its quality to industry.

Now, we'll try to translate that complicated process to an American home kitchen. As a longtime home bread baker, I usually have used the excellent baguette recipe in Julia Child's "Mastering the Art of French Cooking." Raymond Carvel, a major figure in the French bread culture, devised it and I recommend it to novice bakers.

The recipe below, which makes three loaves, is my own, one that I developed over many years and continue to tweak.

The true baguette-baking system is a daunting challenge for even the experienced home baker, but with a little practice, patience and understanding of how dough rises, we can come pretty close to the real thing.

"Making pretty baguettes is one of the most difficult jobs in all of baking, so expect to put in some practice time," warns Maggie Glezer, author of the superb bread book, "Artisan Baking."

This process is trickier than most breads, simple at first, then harder as the moment of truth -- getting the loaves in the oven -- advances. So, here's fair warning:

The dough is wetter than most breads -- that means sticky, sometimes gooey. It's hard to handle and the danger is using too much flour, which in turn leads to denser doughs, sure-fire failure for a baguette.

Along with a wet dough, there are other essential elements to a baguette: gentle mixing and kneading, a long fermentation, a very hot oven and, as professional baker James MacGuire says, "an iron hand in a velvet glove." Another baker, Rick Kirby of Acme Bakery, Berkeley, Calif., describes the touch as "gentle, but meaningful."

-- Bob Hoover

Parisian Baguettes

PG tested

• 3 1/2 cups (500 grams) unbleached all-purpose flour such as organic Gold Medal or King Arthur
• 1 teaspoon fine salt
• 1/4 teaspoon instant dry yeast
• 1 1/2 cups cool (70- to 72-degree) water
• Cornmeal for dusting surface
• Spray oil

Notes: These flour choices are about the closest we can get to the soft French flour. King Arthur sells a "French-type" flour by mail order. Dough made with softer flour requires minimal kneading, unlike bread flour.

I use SAF Instant Yeast, a commercial variety available at Pennsylvania Macaroni Co. and kingarthurflour.com.If you can't find it, dissolve the standard dry yeast in the water, stirring thoroughly before adding flour. Do this by first sprinkling the yeast over the water and allowing it to hydrate for about a minute, then stir to dissolve.

• Instant-read thermometer
• Scale (optional)
• Pizza peel or a sheet of cardboard slightly smaller than dimensions of your oven
• Pizza cutter
• Baking stone or cookie sheet
• Parchment paper
• Spray oil
• Shallow pan or small cast-iron skillet
• Single-edge razor blade
• Stand mixer (optional)

For convenience, mix and knead dough at night, allowing it to ferment overnight in the refrigerator. Then bread can be formed and baked the next day.

Blend flour, salt and instant yeast well in mixing bowl. Add the water and mix the dough gently but completely with wooden spoon, making sure all the flour is blended with the cool water. Cover with plastic wrap for 15 minutes. This rest allows the water to be fully absorbed by the flour.

Flour hands and lift and turn the dough in the bowl several times, then fold it over on itself at least 5 times, using as little flour as possible. Turn bowl a quarter turn and repeat folding. Repeat turning and folding until you can form the dough into a rough ball, periodically checking that temperature is between 72 and 78 degrees. Cover bowl tightly and rest 20 minutes.

Blend the flour, yeast and salt in mixer bowl, add the water and, using paddle attachment, mix thoroughly for 2 to 3 minutes. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest 15 minutes.

With a dough hook, knead at low speed (Setting 2 on Kitchenaid) for 5 minutes. Dough should be sticky but cohesive. With floured hands, turn dough over several times and form into a ball. Cover bowl tightly and rest 20 minutes.

Uncover and turn dough gently several times, re-cover tightly and allow to rest at room temperature for an hour. Then refrigerate at least 6 hours. (Dough can stay refrigerated up to 24 hours.) The long, cool rise helps develop flavor.

When ready to form the baguettes, remove dough from refrigerator and sit at room temperature for an hour. Set up oven by placing one rack in middle with baking stone and one below with enough room for a shallow pan. Set oven at 500 degrees.

Turn dough on to floured work surface and cut into 3 roughly equal rectangular pieces with wet pizza cutter, pastry scraper or knife. With floured hands, gently push and pull the dough, flattening it slighty. Treating dough like a business letter, fold one-third to middle, then fold other third over it, sealing the fold by pinching the dough together.

Placing both hands at the center of the dough, roll into a log by moving each hand out to the end as you roll. Repeat until you form a 14-inch to 16-inch baguette.

On the pizza peel or cardboard, place a piece of parchment paper 2 to 3 inches wider than the surface, spray with oil and lightly dust with flour or cornmeal.

Move each baguette to the prepared surface longways, then pull up the sides of the parchment paper, folding to make a trough for dough to rise in. Use rolling pins or tightly rolled kitchen towels to support the dough at both sides. Spray the loaves with oil.

Cover thoroughly but loosely with plastic wrap and allow dough to rise at room temperature for at least 45 minutes.

Check dough for readiness by gently poking it with a finger. If the indentation springs back after a minute or so, dough is ready.

Dip the razor blade in water and, holding it at an angle, make 3 straight slashes on each loaf.

Place a chair or stool in front of oven and fill a bowl or 4-cup measure with ice. Put peel on chair, uncover dough, remove supports, open oven, pulling rack with stone out. Carefully slide the parchment paper and its loaves from the peel to the stone. (This takes practice.) Push back rack, dump the ice cubes in the pan and shut the door.

In 10 minutes, lower temperature to 350 degrees. Baguettes will be done 25 to 30 minutes later. Turn off oven, open the door and let loaves sit on stone for 5 minutes before removing to cool completely on a rack.

Makes 3 baguettes.

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